Hey yall, sorry it’s been a minute. I’ve been crazy busy. I won’t bore anyone with horrible excuses though. I’ve been having a ton of fun and climbing my butt off. A little too much climbing it seems, because guess who has a bad tendon now?… ME… This guy does. And it sucks. My last post was two months ago. To catch up, below is a quick to glance-over list of completed boulder problems from V7-V11. Following the list is a brief, rambling, incoherent jumble of descriptive sentences about a few boulders, problems, and areas. Enjoy!
“Roadside Distraction” (V11). Highway 221.
“Lever 2000” (V9 Flash). Highway 221.
“Jugs On A Slab” (V9). Viaduct Area.
“Heartless Bastard” (V8FA). Grandmother Mountain.
“Quartz Roof” (V8). Edgemont.
“Macheesema” (V8, second go). Grandmother Mountain.
“Fizzy Pop” (V8 FA). Orange Soda Crag.
“Krampus – Undercling Sit” (V8 FA). Rocky Creek.
“Nehi” (V8 Second Ascent, second go). Orange Soda Crag.
“Krampus” (V7 FA). Rocky Creek.
“Biscuit Warm-Up Dyno” (V7). Biscuit Rock.
“Be Awesome” (V7 Onsight). Hwy 221.
“Long Boy” (V7, second go). Blowing Rock.
“Creekside Direct” (V7 FA). Highway 221.
“Doomed To Obscurity” (V7, repeat). Blowing Rock.
“Zen” (V7, repeat). Grandmother Mountain.
“Druid Roof” (V7, repeat). Highway 221.
“Black Magic Woman” (V7, repeat). Highway 221.
“Apocalypse Prow” (V7 Flash). Upper Lost Cove.
Let me start by saying that I’m psyched to have sent Roadside Distraction (V11). It was awesome. The downside to the process is that I worsened an already jacked up finger while projecting it. I recently injured my tendon (actually, I think that its my A2 pulley which is partially torn) and that really sucks. Several moves on Roadside were just crimpy enough for my right hand to make the process painful. My pride got in the way and I pushed through despite the discomfort. If I warmed up and dialed in the move, I was able to do the move open handed and it was fine. As I got sloppy, I was punished… But, I narrowed down the line into two parts, and came back fresh. I linked the two low percentage moves and finished it up. “Roadside Distraction” (V11) is a Boone region test piece, a proud send, and a historical climb. I couldn’t be prouder, but it is true that I’m paying the price for the send.
Flashing “Lever 2000” (V9) was cool. It was my type of movement and I love the line. I don’t usually flash problems, but my buddy Rick gave me awesome beta and it felt smooth. A couple hard moves with some heel hooking funk to an easy top out. “Jugs on a Slab” (V9) was crazy awesome. Also, it was really stupid of me to do with a finger injury. What a wonderful roof problem though! The problem starts with rows of crimps into jugs and a slopey finish. Several of the V8s were amazing. “Quartz Roof” may be my favorite of the grade in Boone. “Krampus Sit” is literally in my back yard here in Boone, and tied up on private land. I got permission, cleaned the 20ft line up, and sent several nights ago. I just wish it were public so it could be an area classic! I was able to do “Macheesema” on my second try, but it felt very difficult. Most of the V7s were repeats, but the flash of “Apocalypse Prow” was a really proud send in my book. I absolutely love that rig!
I’m now resting my finger for a month or so, starting a crazy gymnastic training schedule in the meantime, and seeking to find the best jug-fests in the High Country. Im psyched on checking out several cool new and new-to-me areas around here! Bummed about the finger, but excited for whats to come.