Millennium Falcon (V8FA)

•November 21, 2015 • Leave a Comment

I finally got to go back out to this huge roof I discovered last season! I was out here last week and fixed up the landing. After working out the moves last trip, I completed this beast pretty quickly (thank goodness, this thing is steep and has a ton of moves!). “Millennium Falcon”(V8FA) is no doubt one of the very best roofs I have ever climbed and I feel very lucky to have had the chance to get the FA here. Beautiful southern sandstone, big and flowy movement, and a full package of holds and height would make this a classic in any boulderfield. Sorry for the lack of quality on the video.



Downward Dog V10, Upper Lost Cove

•November 17, 2015 • Leave a Comment

I had sworn off Downward Dog (V10) at the upper reaches of Upper Lost Cove a couple of years ago. I wish that first experience hadn’t been in such conditions, but yesterday’s reintroduction was nothing short of magical despite my slighted previous interaction. Before, I hiked up in late summer muggy-ness and the humid sloper pinches were unusable to say the least. Yesterday Jeff Verner was psyched and asked if Rami and I would hike out and work the problem with him. I couldn’t resist heading out and getting the lowdown on beta and sequence, so I padded up and walked out. Jeff described and demonstrated the sequence, and then Rami walked the steep line quickly. After a battle, I managed to flail my way up to the top out even though I botched two consecutive moves after the crux. Pat Goodman put this beauty up a few years back and this has been on my list of most awesome looking climbs in Boone ever since I first saw a photo. Above is a beautifully done video of Josh Shepherd climbing the line, shot by Dalton Hilfinger.


SWVA Sandstone Amazing

•November 17, 2015 • Leave a Comment

Welcome to Night Vale

Exploration and the search for new boulders rarely lead to finding the “motherload”, but, with some luck and persistence, especially in the rugged old mountains of Appalachia, the searcher can be rewarded with some truly astonishing stone. Such is the case in Southwestern corner of Virginia. In the coalfield bouldergarden that I’ve been exploring for the past two seasons I decided to break off from the day’s projects to explore a bit further. In doing so I discovered this new riverside roof I named Night Vale. I only had time to clean and climb one new line which I dubbed “Welcome to Night Vale”(V7FA). This line starts under the roof on a striking 8ft long, sloping, flat ledge. Paddle out from the start to the corner of the boulder and start out traversing the low lip. Quickly you get into the corner pinch crux, and beyond that a difficult stance to climb the face to a solid top out. Under the roof a more difficult project from the same shared start will go next visit!


Minor Threat (V9 FA)

•November 17, 2015 • Leave a Comment

Minor Threat v9             Rick Carpenter and I were perusing satellite images near Hwy 221 in Boone and noticed an interesting rock outcropping. After several days of exploration, trail work, and brushing we had the cluster of blocks ready for climbing. After speaking to the demigods of local Boone NC bouldering development, it was nodded to us that these blocks were in fact unclimbed. While we climbed several fun lines there, nearly 20 individual problems, one escaped completion. This project is also the finest looking line in the area we named the Cul-de-sac. I sessioned this line on and off for a month and gave it a rest (the stand went at a hard V7). Finally I returned with my friend Keith and sent what is now the proudest roof line at the Cul-de-sac, “Minor Treat”(V9FA). Minor Threat begins at the low point at the base of the roof on two tiny edges and a far foot. Once levered off of the foot, an overhead sidepull stab to a slot and a quick lateral dyno into a gaston jug is in order. Match the jug and work into a higher left hand roof lobe. Dyno out of the roof to a thin crimp edge, and follow better holds to an easy-as-pie top. From here, take in one of the best top-out view sheds in the highcountry.


Guinness (V9) Upper Area E, Boone NC

•November 17, 2015 • Leave a Comment

Guinness V9

My buddy and local obscure boulder aficionado Rick showed me this cool, well established but seldom tried problem a month or so ago. Rick was super close to this line and had worked out all of the beta and technical aspects to the T. Guinness has two super tricky, steep moves, and a commanding top move to the finish. After watching Rick do the bottom half, and after I tried the harsh heel hook sequence, I was able to climb this one on my first full attempt of the season. The only downside to this problem is that it isn’t as picturesque as you want it to be. Tucked down in a hole, the start is claustrophobic, and the hard finish move is above a massive tree that is easily dabbed. Aside from this, the climbing is excellent and highly recommended!


Olde Boone Obscurity

•November 17, 2015 • Leave a Comment

Not a Warmup

In the middle of the summer here in Boone NC, my friend showed me a super obscure, little traveled, unnamed boulder problem off of Hwy 221. To my knowledge the line had only known one ascent, and having recently healed up from an injured tendon, the heinous crimps called to me. I worked this line over the course of two months and the summer humidity made the third move feel low percentage and unstable. Two months later I returned and sent on the day’s first attempt. The First Ascentionest was Matt Childers, and I have heard that a possible second ascent could’ve occurred, but that, along with the grade is unconfirmed. I’ll call it “Not A Warm-up” (V9) for the time being, as it can be found at the roadside Warm-Up boulder at the Lower Viaduct boulderfield off of 221. Go try it! Sit start at the rear, uphill face on the two massive jugs at the base of the boulder. Toss up to a horrendous crimp, and gain the edge above it. Huck to a better rail and traverse left to the high arête to top out. Paul Fuelling reports that if you top out direct from the sit start the line would be quite a bit harder, and this has not been done.

Two Months and a Tendon

•May 7, 2015 • Leave a Comment

DSC_0028DSC_0021Hey yall, sorry it’s been a minute. I’ve been crazy busy. I won’t bore anyone with horrible excuses though. I’ve been having a ton of fun and climbing my butt off. A little too much climbing it seems, because guess who has a bad tendon now?… ME… This guy does. And it sucks. My last post was two months ago. To catch up, below is a quick to glance-over list of completed boulder problems from V7-V11. Following the list is a brief, rambling, incoherent jumble of descriptive sentences about a few boulders, problems, and areas. Enjoy!

“Roadside Distraction” (V11). Highway 221.

“Lever 2000” (V9 Flash). Highway 221.

“Jugs On A Slab” (V9). Viaduct Area.

“Heartless Bastard” (V8FA). Grandmother Mountain.

“Quartz Roof” (V8). Edgemont.

“Macheesema” (V8, second go). Grandmother Mountain.

“Fizzy Pop” (V8 FA). Orange Soda Crag.

“Krampus – Undercling Sit” (V8 FA). Rocky Creek.

“Nehi” (V8 Second Ascent, second go). Orange Soda Crag.

“Krampus” (V7 FA). Rocky Creek.

“Biscuit Warm-Up Dyno” (V7). Biscuit Rock.

“Be Awesome” (V7 Onsight). Hwy 221.

“Long Boy” (V7, second go). Blowing Rock.

“Creekside Direct” (V7 FA). Highway 221.

“Doomed To Obscurity” (V7, repeat). Blowing Rock.

“Zen” (V7, repeat). Grandmother Mountain.

“Druid Roof” (V7, repeat). Highway 221.

“Black Magic Woman” (V7, repeat). Highway 221.

“Apocalypse Prow” (V7 Flash). Upper Lost Cove.


Let me start by saying that I’m psyched to have sent Roadside Distraction (V11). It was awesome. The downside to the process is that I worsened an already jacked up finger while projecting it. I recently injured my tendon (actually, I think that its my A2 pulley which is partially torn) and that really sucks. Several moves on Roadside were just crimpy enough for my right hand to make the process painful. My pride got in the way and I pushed through despite the discomfort. If I warmed up and dialed in the move, I was able to do the move open handed and it was fine. As I got sloppy, I was punished… But, I narrowed down the line into two parts, and came back fresh. I linked the two low percentage moves and finished it up. “Roadside Distraction” (V11) is a Boone region test piece, a proud send, and a historical climb. I couldn’t be prouder, but it is true that I’m paying the price for the send.

Flashing “Lever 2000” (V9) was cool. It was my type of movement and I love the line. I don’t usually flash problems, but my buddy Rick gave me awesome beta and it felt smooth. A couple hard moves with some heel hooking funk to an easy top out. “Jugs on a Slab” (V9) was crazy awesome. Also, it was really stupid of me to do with a finger injury. What a wonderful roof problem though! The problem starts with rows of crimps into jugs and a slopey finish. Several of the V8s were amazing. “Quartz Roof” may be my favorite of the grade in Boone. “Krampus Sit” is literally in my back yard here in Boone, and tied up on private land. I got permission, cleaned the 20ft line up, and sent several nights ago. I just wish it were public so it could be an area classic! I was able to do “Macheesema” on my second try, but it felt very difficult. Most of the V7s were repeats, but the flash of “Apocalypse Prow” was a really proud send in my book. I absolutely love that rig!

I’m now resting my finger for a month or so, starting a crazy gymnastic training schedule in the meantime, and seeking to find the best jug-fests in the High Country. Im psyched on checking out several cool new and new-to-me areas around here! Bummed about the finger, but excited for whats to come.11162054_10202858988434212_6485058495118000856_o


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